Showing posts with label howto. Show all posts
Showing posts with label howto. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Thanksgiving Guide 2011



Thanksgiving needn't be a stressful time of year. In fact, hosting Thanksgiving can be a lot of fun. This year, rather than obsessing over the food and the table decor, I've tried to reflect more on the
meaning
of Thanksgiving. To be thankful for what I have, and for the people I love. After all, Thanksgiving is just one day, but we have so much to be thankful for every day. Keeping that perspective takes a lot of the pressure off of trying to create a perfect meal (which, by the way, does not exist outside magazines!). All that aside, planning is a key component of hosting any event. Below, I've laid out a series of Thanksgiving day recipes and ideas–mostly healthy, mostly simple, and most of which can be made (at least partially) in advance. Here's to a fun, relaxed, and joyful Thanksgiving!



Herb Roasted Turkey with Apple Cider Brine
Sick of having a dry turkey? Brining your turkey–soaking it overnight in a saline solution before roasting–definitely creates the moistest, most flavorful turkey you can imagine. Full disclosure: it does take a bit of work, but the end result is fantastic. Give it a try!



Winter Squash Salad with Kale & Pomegranate Seeds
This salad is a perfect canvas to experiment with different types of winter squash. I used acorn and Delicata, but you could really use any type–butternut or Kabocha would also be nice. The gorgeous colors make it an ideal side dish for the holidays.



Farro with Wild Mushrooms
This is a healthy adaptation of my favorite Thanksgiving Day dish growing up: my mom's Brown Rice. I took out the stick of butter and the cans of soup, and substituted farro for the rice and fresh mushrooms for canned. The end result? Still intensely flavorful–without feeling so heavy.



Brussels Sprouts & Red Cabbage Slaw
Super healthy and easy to prepare, Brussels sprouts are a must for me on Thanksgiving day. Studded with dried cranberries and pine nuts, this slaw is delicious and takes only 20 minutes to prepare.



Simple Roasted Cauliflower
If you're not a cauliflower fan (as I used to claim I wasn't), try roasting it. Tossed with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper and blasted in a hot oven, this normally bland vegetable is utterly transformed.



Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Red Onions & Arugula
This is one of my all-time favorite ways to eat sweet potatoes. I love the amazing combination of flavors: sweet potatoes and roasted red onions with rosemary, salty Parmesan, and peppery arugula.



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Friday, October 14, 2011

How to Throw a Fall Dinner Party (with Video)


GUEST PHOTO BY SIGNE BIRCK

Based on the title of this blog, you can probably tell that dinner parties are sort of my thing. Especially when they're held around the yellow table. I love this table for so many reasons–and not just because of all the memorable meals and conversations I've shared around it. I love its warm mustard color. I love the scratches and dents that give it personality. I love the story behind it. But one of the things I love most is its ability to expand. Normally we keep it as a cozy six-seater, but when we have larger groups, we can add leaves to expand it to fit 8, 10, or even 12 people. It's a table that can always fit one more. Which was the case a few weekends ago when we hosted a 10-person fall storytelling dinner, the first in what I hope will become a series of story-filled soirées.

When I throw dinner parties, I like mixing up the crowd a bit. I love to bring different friends together–some of Brandon's, some of mine, and some of ours–and watch the worlds collide. As important as the food and the ambiance are, it's the people that make a dinner party. Though I may recall a certain dish the next day (if it was really good), what will linger for weeks and months are stories told, laughter shared, and new friendships formed. One of these new friends is the fantastically talented Danish food photographer Signe Birck. She met my brother Davis last November (that's a story for another time...) and we recently connected in NYC. We were both passionate about similar things–me, food and writing, she, food and photography, so it was a natural fit for us to work together. I told her I was throwing a dinner party and that she should come–with her camera. She did, and the beautiful photographs on today's post (all except the video) are Signe's work. Thank you!!


GUEST PHOTO BY SIGNE BIRCK

People tell me all the time that they are intimidated to host a dinner party. They're not sure what to cook, worried about their lack of space, and afraid it will be a ton of work–so they end up going out to dinner (again). I want to demystify the process as much as possible on this blog, because honestly, having friends over and cooking for them is one of the most rewarding things in life. I've learned a couple of things from throwing dinner parties over the years and one of the most important tips I can pass along is this: PLAN AHEAD. I don't mean to start planning months in advance or anything, just try and do everything ahead that you can (cleaning, set-up, prep, cooking) so you can relax and enjoy your guests once they arrive.

With dinner parties, I'm a list-keeper. First, there's the menu. Then the shopping list. Then there's the to-do list (errands, cleaning, cooking, table, music, etc.), and finally the day of, the cooking prep list. I like to check things off and know where I stand in the process. I actually plan my dinner party menus based on the ability to make things in advance. If I can get the dessert done and the table set the night before, I already feel way ahead of the game. Also, don't be afraid to delegate! Spread the work around...nobody said you have to do everything just because you're hosting! Here's a little video (be nice...I'm no TV host!) taken just before the party, with a play-by-play of the menu, and some easy, stress-free entertaining tips:



Another few dinner party tips:

• Set the ambiance: light some candles, dim the lights (which helps disguise those areas you didn't have time to dust!), and have a great playlist going when guests arrive. I'm a sucker for jazz–Ella Fitzgerald, Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Diana Krall, and St. Germain are all favorites of mine for dinner parties.

• Have drinks and snacks ready when guests arrive! This one is key. As long as everyone has something to sip, and something to nibble on, they are fine hanging out in the living room while I put the finishing touches on the meal. Lucky for me, we have an open kitchen that faces the living room, so I can still be part of the party while I'm cooking. And your hors d'oevres don't need to be elaborate–I usually put out some good olives, a couple of cheeses, and crackers. Or a good homemade dip and flatbread. Keep it simple!

• I'm a huge fan of one-pot dinners, especially in the fall and winter. Coq au Vin, Bouef Bourguignon, braised short ribs (basically anything cooked in red wine!!), or a big pot of soup can be made in advance and reheated when everyone arrives. And best of all, it can be dished out right from the pot, served with a green salad and some crusty bread to round things out.

• Get some cool vintage bottles to use for water on your table. I use old milk bottles and glass carafes (no need for them to match!) and keep them filled with water during a dinner party so I don't have to keep hopping up and down to refill water glasses.

• I love flowers, but I'm not a fan of tall arrangements on the table that block conversation. My mom gave me some of my great grandmother's cosmetics bottles and they make beautiful little vases. I'll put a single flower in each and line the table with these mismatched vintage arrangements. And I love to put one in the bathroom as well.

• Write your menu somewhere that everyone can see. I've got a chalkboard that hangs in the kitchen that I write the menu on, but sometimes it's fun to have hand-written menu cards at everyone's place.


GUEST PHOTO BY SIGNE BIRCK

Fall Dinner Party Menu

Fig & Ricotta Crostini

Butternut Squash Gnocchi with Sage Butter

Herb & Dijon Crusted Pork Shoulder (recipe below)
Balsamic Roasted Pears & Onions (recipe below)
Roasted Brussels Sprouts

Pumpkin Gingerbread Cake
with Cinnamon Whipped Cream


GUEST PHOTO BY SIGNE BIRCK


HERB & DIJON CRUSTED PORK SHOULDER

Serves 10 to 12

1 (4- to 5- lb. boneless pork shoulder, sometimes called "pork butt")
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon apricot jam
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 teaspoons sea salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
3-4 tablespoons olive oil

Butterfly the pork so it is more or less the same thickness across.

In a mini-prep food processor (or in a smallish bowl), pulse (or whisk) to combine the rosemary, thyme, mustard, apricot jam, garlic, salt, and pepper.

Add the olive oil slowly, pulsing (or whisking) to combine. Rub the herb mixture all over the pork, then roll up the pork shoulder, tying with butcher's twine to secure.

Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate in the refrigerator for 2-3 hours.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Let the pork come to room temperature before roasting.

Roast the pork skin-side up, in a roasting pan fitted with a rack for about 3 hours or until the meat is fork-tender (the internal temperature should be 180°F).

Let rest for 10-15 minutes, then remove twine and slice.

*This is the most tender, juicy, flavorful pork dish I have ever made–and at only $4.99/lb, it feeds a crowd inexpensively!

BALSAMIC ROASTED PEARS & RED ONIONS

Serves 10 to 12

4 Bosc pears, cut into eighths (skin on)
2 large red onions, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Fresh thyme sprigs

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line two sheet trays with aluminum foil.

Toss the pears and onions in the Balsamic vinegar and olive oil until well coated, and season with salt and pepper.

Spread the mixture on the sheet trays and scatter 2-3 thyme springs (per pan) over the pears and onions.

Roast for 30 minutes or until tender. Let cool slightly before serving alongside the pork.



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Monday, October 3, 2011

How to Make Butternut Squash Gnocchi (Video)


GUEST PHOTO BY SIGNE BIRCK

This time of year–when the weather is cooling off and the leaves are starting to change–I start craving butternut squash. To me, this long, funky-shaped squash, with its bright orange, slightly sweet fIesh, represents fall. I love it in all its forms–roasted, sautéed, mashed, puréed. But my favorite way to enjoy butternut squash is in gnocchi–those delicate little larvae-shaped dumplings that taste so good, yet are so painstaking to make.

As I was planning the menu for my dinner party last weekend, I knew I wanted to make butternut squash gnocchi for the first course. I pictured plates of tiny, beautifully-shaped dumplings, tossed with browned sage butter and sprinkled with grated Parmesan. I imagined the oohs and ahhs that would involuntarily escape the mouths of my guests. But I hesitated, reminding myself that making gnocchi from scratch would involve a pretty serious time commitment, and that there was plenty of room for error with the dough. What if I went through all that effort and they turned out as ugly little leaden lumps? I told myself that it would be crazy to try and make enough gnocchi for 10 people in addition to everything else I was planning to make. But then I thought how delicious they would be, and how this was the perfect chance to practice my rather rusty gnocchi-making skills (let's just say it had been a few years...)


I researched a bunch of gnocchi recipes online, and decided that if anyone knew how to make gnocchi, it would be Lydia Bastianich. Using her recipe as a guide (of course I made a few changes along the way...), I started with the butternut squash purée: I roasted the butternut squash, whizzed it in a food processor, then cooked it for five minutes over the stove top to remove all additional moisture. Like traditional gnocchi, Lydia's recipe calls for potatoes as well. I peeled and boiled a few spuds and pressed them through a ricer while they were still warm. I know a potato ricer may not be a tool you have lying around, but it's worth investing in one if you like to make mashed potatoes or gnocchi. It will give your potatoes the light, silky texture needed to make a smooth dough (or a super-creamy potato purée). Let the butternut squash puree and potatoes cool before proceeding to the next step.

In a bowl (see picture above), I gently combined the butternut squash puree, the riced potatoes, an egg, salt, grated Parmesan, and about a cup of flour with a spatula. I gradually added another half cup of flour to create a soft, slightly sticky dough. (The recipe called for 1 3/4 cups of flour, but I only ended up using 1 1/2 cups.) The key here is not to overwork the dough! The less flour you use, the better–you want your dough to be smooth and elastic like Play-Doh, not dry and brittle. At this point, you can remove the dough to a floured surface and knead a few times until you have a smooth ball of dough. Just sprinkle with additional flour if it's still sticky. Divide the dough in half with a bread cutter (this is a really useful, inexpensive tool that will also come in handy when making bread or pastry), then into fourths and eighths. You should have eight small balls of dough.



Now for the fun part...rolling and shaping the gnocchi!! Go ahead and line two sheet trays with parchment paper–you will need these to put the gnocchi on as you shape them. Brandon made a little step-by-step video (below) of me shaping one of the small dough balls into a long rope, cutting it into little pillows, then rolling each dumpling over fork tines to create the traditional gnocchi ridges. Check it out–it's sort of like a gnocchi-making music video (and therefore way more fun to watch than to read boring step-by-step instructions...). This is our first how-to video, with more on the way...let us know what you think!



A big lesson I learned while making gnocchi is that you have to be careful not to let the dough get too warm, or it will get too soft to hold its shape properly. I found that it was really helpful to chill the gnocchi in the refrigerator for about half an hour between cutting them into little pillows and shaping them into gnocchi. I chilled them again before I boiled them–you don't want the dough to be too soft or it will fall apart in the boiling water. Also, if you want to make the gnocchi in advance, you can freeze them for several days or even weeks. Just take them directly from the freezer and place them in the boiling water. They are ready when they float to the surface, usually about 3 or 4 minutes.


GUEST PHOTO BY SIGNE BIRCK

In the end, the gnocchi were delicious. I did everything in advance–even the boiling can be done ahead–so all I had to do was sauté them in the sage butter right before serving. To be honest, from start to finish, they took me about six hours to make. Probably because I was slow and sort of learning as I went, but I definitely loved the way they turned out and I can't wait to make them again!

BUTTERNUT SQUASH GNOCCHI WITH SAGE BUTTER

Makes 6 main course servings, or 10 appetizer portions

1 2-pound butternut squash
Olive oil for brushing
Two 12-ounce russet potatoes, peeled and quartered
3/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided
1 large egg, beaten
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups (or more) all purpose flour
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Additional grated Parmesan cheese
Fried sage leaves

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Cut the butternut squash in half, scoop out the seeds and pulp, and brush with olive oil. Roast, cut-side up, for about an hour, or until tender when pierced with a knife and beginning to brown. When cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh into a food processor and purée until smooth. Place the puree in a small saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the puré is thickened, about five minutes. (This will remove all extra moisture from the squash.) Set aside one cup of purée for the gnocchi and save the rest for another use.

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes in salted water for about 20 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a knife. Drain the potatoes and press them through a potato ricer into a medium bowl. Measure out two cups of potatoes for the gnocchi. Let cool completely. Measure out the remaining gnocchi ingredients and have lined up ready to go. Prepare two parchment-lined sheet trays.

Using a spatula, gently combine the squash purée, potatoes, 1/2 cup Parmesan, egg, pinch of nutmeg, and salt in a large bowl. Fold in a cup of flour, gradually adding the remaining half cup until a soft, slightly sticky dough forms. Feel free to add a few more tablespoons of flour if necessary, taking care not to overwork the dough.

Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead several times to form a smooth ball. Using a floured dough cutter (or a sharp floured knife), divide the dough in half. Then cut into fourths, and eighths, sprinkling the dough balls with additional flour.

Working with one dough ball at a time, pat the ball into a small log and begin rolling it into a long rope. The dough should ideally feel sort of like Play-Doh, though mine felt slightly softer. If it becomes too soft to roll, use your hands to stretch the dough and pat it into a long rope about 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick (depending on how big you want your gnocchi to be). Using the dough cutter, cut the rope into 1/2- to 3/4-inch pieces (again, personal preference). Place the little dumplings on the parchment-lined sheet tray and chill for about 30 minutes in the refrigerator. This step wasn't in the original recipe, but I found it extremely helpful in shaping the dough–if it's too soft, it's very difficult to shape the gnocchi.

Remove the dumplings from the fridge and roll them, one by one, over the back of fork tines dipped in flour. Press lightly with your thumb as you roll, and they should have small grooves down one side. Watch the video for clarification! Place the dumplings back on the sheet tray and let chill until ready to boil. Continue the process with the remaining dough balls.

Working in batches, boil the gnocchi in a large pot of salted water until they rise to the surface. Remove them with a slotted spoon onto two parchment-lined sheet trays. I did this in four batches, and each batch took around 3-5 minutes. Let chill until just before dinner.

To make the sage butter, heat two large sauté pans over medium-high heat. Place 1/2 stick of butter in each pan and let melt and begin to brown just slightly, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the sage and cook for an additional minute. Add half the gnocchi to each pan and sauté until heated through and just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and toss with the additional 1/4 cup Parmesan.

Serve the gnocchi with additional grated Parmesan and topped with a fried sage leaf. Buon appetito!



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