A Day I'll Never Forget...

There are few things in life I love more than a good story. My favorite saying as a child was "You never know what a day will bring." That expression continues to influence my life, giving me a sense of hope and excitement about what each day might hold. I don't ever want to lose that sense of wonder. I feel so privileged to be a part of a story that is so immense and so beautiful, written by a far greater storyteller than me.

Two years ago today–on March 11, 2010–the greatest story of my life unfolded in an utterly surprising and beautiful way. For those of you who already know this story, forgive me for retelling it. For those of you who haven't heard it, be encouraged: dreams absolutely can and do come true. The story involves my favorite place (Paris), my favorite person (Brandon), a gorgeous dress, a scavenger hunt, a bunch of red roses, a bridge, and a ring. Fairy tell stuff, right?

The story took place on my 30th birthday. I was working for the French Tourist Office at the time, a job that involved frequent travel to France (rough, I know...!). Lucky for me, I had a business trip that was scheduled a few days after my birthday so the lightbulb went off in my head: why not avoid all the angst surrounding turning 30 and celebrate in Paris? I got the green light from my boss to move up my ticket a few days and then presented the idea to Brandon. We had been dating for nearly two years at this point and had been to Paris once together already. He loved the idea and said it would actually work out perfectly because he needed to go to London on business. He said he'd see if he could arrange his trip for the few days before my birthday and just take the train over to Paris to meet me. Perfect!

I proceeded to make all the plans (as I love to do): booked a hotel, made dinner reservations, made plans with my Parisian friends. Little did I know that Brandon was making plans of his own...



He gave me a present and a card before he left and told me not to open it until I landed in Paris, the morning of my birthday. I loved that I had a surprise to look forward to when I landed. A few days later, I landed and groggily opened my card. It said "Happy Birthday Love! Today is a big day and I want you to use your gift to document our big adventure." (Big adventure?! What did he have in mind??) The card continued: "Your driver will be downstairs to meet you. See you later today!" ?! What?? Driver?? Oh my gosh. I opened the present and it was a little handheld video camera that just said "Push Play." I did, and there was a little message from Brandon, telling me he loved me and that I should use this to document my special day. I burst into tears...how in the world had he planned all of this? And what did he have in store?

My head was buzzing with ideas and thoughts and excitement. Could he possibly be... No, no, no I told myself. He's not proposing. We had definitely talked about marriage and knew we wanted to one day, but I knew he hadn't talked to my dad yet and we had a trip planned to visit my parents the following month. So I put all engagement thoughts aside and decided to just focus on this elaborate birthday surprise he had in store.

I headed down to get my luggage, and sure enough, there was a driver with a little Mlle WATSON sign waiting for me. It was all completely surreal. I hopped in the car, and off we went! I had no idea where we were headed and the driver said he wasn't allowed to tell me! I settled back for 45 minutes until we began winding our way through the narrow streets of Paris. We finally ended up in the Marais and pulled up in front of the adorable Hotel du Petit Moulin (a place I had been dying to visit for years!).

The hotel staff whisked away my luggage and took me up to my room. The rest of the story is recorded in this amazing video, filmed and edited by Victor Paguia. (Who, I later found out, Brandon had flown over to secretly document the whole story! His then-girlfriend, now fiancee, Becky Shim took the beautiful pictures.)



All in all, this was–aside from my wedding day–the most magical day of my life. The video still brings tears to my eyes. That this amazing man loved me enough not only to want to spend the rest of his life with me, but that he knew me well enough to want to give me a great story.

One other little detail that the video doesn't share was that Brandon had, in fact already talked to my parents. While I was traveling for work that January, he had secretly flown down to Nashville to talk to my parents and ask their blessing. They gave it readily, and kept it all a secret for six weeks until we were engaged. So the whole day when I was going on this amazing scavenger hunt (to all my favorite spots in Paris!) I kept telling myself, don't expect a proposal, don't expect a proposal...

Of course the story is only beginning. Six months after our Parisian engagement we were married in NYC (that deserves a post of its own one day...!)



And today, two years later, I am even more in love with this man than I ever thought possible. I am one very, very blessed woman. If you take away one thing from this story, I hope it's this: "You never know what a day will bring!"


Engagement photos by: Becky Shim
Video by: Victor Paguia
Wedding photo by: Eric Ryan Anderson


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Q&A with Chef Randall Price

To say Chef Randall Price has led a fascinating life would be an understatement. This incredibly talented chef, writer, and teacher has cooked for presidents, diplomats, and royalty – in embassies, chateaux, and restaurants – and has written a book and a comic book series about (some of) his experiences. American-born, Randall has lived in France for 26 years, and he can thank Eagle Brand condensed milk for getting him over there for the first time (read on for details).


Randall and his entourage (La Varenne, 2006)

I had the privilege of meeting Randall in 2006 when I was a stagiaire ("trainee") at La Varenne. He was working for Anne Willan at the time, as resident chef/instructor at La Varenne and director of their test kitchen. He also had the fun task of managing all of us stagiaires (pictured above!). Randall taught me so many things–how to make gougeres, how to roll out puff pastry, how to make stocks, soups, how to roast a chicken, and how to make a light-as-air soufflé. All basics of French cuisine, but new to me at the time. He also kept us rolling with laughter, with his constant witty commentary. I feel as though I have several years' worth of stories from the six months I spent there.

Years later, Randall is a dear friend and I make sure to catch up with him every time I'm in Paris (he always insists on throwing a dinner party!). He's been busy in recent months, teaching cooking classes in Paris, starring in a new French comic series "Chef & Chat," and traveling to Monterrey, Mexico to cook for the French Food Festival. His new book, Chroniques Culinaires & Caustiques – full of stories from his summers cooking for a countess in an Auvergnat castle – has been a big hit in France and will hopefully make its way to the U.S. in the near future (fingers crossed!). I caught up with Randall recently to hear about his latest adventures in food, his chateau obsession, and why writing a comic strip series about his life is the most fun he's ever had.



Where are you from?

I grew up in Middletown, Ohio. From the age of about 5 I always told people I wanted to go to France when I grew up. My parents had a mural of 1890's Paris on the living room wall and I used to lie on the floor at sunset and imagine being in this elegant place.

When did you first start cooking? What was your first official chef job?

My mother cooked every day when I was growing up and she had the patience to let me 'help.' I especially liked making apple butter and jelly from our orchard in the fall, and making pies and cakes.

I wanted to learn to cook myself during high school, and my girlfriend Nancy helped me make my first souffle when I was about 17. I made her a Napoleon for her birthday, using a Betty Crocker book as my guide. It was edible.

During college I was famous for late-night honey-whole wheat bread and apple pies from scratch. It was during grad school outside New Orleans that I learned about classic French cooking from eating at Antoine's and Galatoire's, and I gave up grading Freshman Writing papers and taught myself to cook from the Julia Child books. Just like that Julie woman, but without internet to exploit!

After a year of cooking I went to a French restaurant with a tarte tatin, soupe au tortue, and fresh croissants. I was hired and worked there as assistant chef for 5 years.

What brought you to France? And how long have you been there?

It was my prize-winning chocolate walnut cake, which won Chocolatier Magazine's first Great Chocolate Challenge, that changed my life. I won a lifetime supply of Eagle Brand condensed milk, many kilos of chocolate, and a trip to La Varenne cooking school in Paris. I've been here for 26 years.

Tell us how you came to be Chef and cooking instructor at Chateau du Fey/La Varenne?

Founder Anne Willan hired me as a 'stagiaire' and I worked for a full year testing recipes for her La Varenne Pratique encyclopedia of cooking. Then I took the professional Grand Diplome course at the school and immediately after was hired as chef for Ambassador Mark Palmer in Budapest, Hungary. I cooked a huge reception for President G.H. Bush before the collapse of the Berlin wall. I had more embassy gigs in Paris, then was chef in a restaurant there and also hosted a program on The Travel Channel before I returned to La Varenne in Burgundy, as resident chef/teacher and director of the testing kitchen. I was there about 12 years.

Tell us a bit about your new book, Chroniques Culinaires & Caustiques.

My condition for returning to La Varenne was that I would be free in the summers to cook for Joy, Countess de Rohan-Chabot at her incredible 1000-year-old castle in Auvergne. I have cooked for her every summer for 19 years, and my book is a collection of stories about my experiences cooking for the upper crust of French society. Joy is an extremely talented artist, working in trompe-l'oeil and also bronze, and she is also related to all the royal houses of Europe. One of her best friends is ex-president Valery Giscard-d'Estaing, who wrote the introduction to my book. Not only have I fed him many times, I have also witnessed him organize a posse before dinner to catch a renegade cow in the village! George Bush could not have done better. My book explores cultural and culinary differences between French and US cultures. It is all about food but without any recipes. There are some ghosts, a lot of cats and spiders, and some amusing stories - all true!

You clearly have a thing for chateaux. Were you a duke in another life?

No, alas, I don't think I was a Duke in a past life. But I may well have been a Duke's cook!

I didn't have a plan to become a chateau chef, but I'm glad it has worked out that way. Some friends call me 'castle man,' as that was also the focus of the TV series I hosted. I am fascinated by history and architecture, so working in so many chateaux has been a real pleasure. For me, nothing is more fulfilling than cooking a refined meal for appreciative guests in an elegant home, in a kitchen that has been a kitchen for hundreds of years - the original cook's fireplace with its still-functioning bread oven, the 19th-century copper pots and pans and dessert molds, the cupboards heaving under the weight of centuries of lead crystal, delicate porcelain, family-crested silver and bolts of antique linens. The setting and service combine with the food I create to make a meal an almost theatrical event. With the countess, there is no snobbery about having such things; it's just part of her family and herself and she loves to entertain people. We work together to give some really wonderful parties!

Tell us about your new comic book series "Chef & Chat."

After the editor of Grand Seigneur magazine interviewed me about my book, he contacted me and asked if I'd be interested in doing a comic-strip cooking feature for the magazine. He said I could do whatever I wanted in terms of the story - as long as the recipes were good. So I met with graphic novel artist Olivier Josso and we decided to base the series on my life at the Chateau de Jozerand - except with a sort of Young Frankenstein aspect to it. The result is Chef & Chat (Cook & Cat). It is my story, but in the comics my assistants are a giant talking black cat named Balthus and a young woman named Meringue, who is always in a bikini. In real life at the chateau I do have a giant black cat who sort-of talks, and my helper Magda is always in a bikini so she can work on her tan, but in the comic we are adding elements of magic and mystery. The first installment just came out, with a story about a boar hunt to feed twenty-five guests stranded at the chateau. The next story will be about evil chickens and souffles.

This is one of the most fun projects I have ever had! And yes the plan is to make a book of the whole series.

Your desserts are phenomenal! Describe a favorite cake that you've made.

My birthday cake this year - which I recently served at a French Food Festival in Mexico - was two layers of giant macarons with fillings of dark chocolate ganache and white chocolate-passionfruit ganache, covered with a silken chocolate glaze and decorated with gold leaf.

You teach cooking classes as well. What sort of classes do you normally teach?

After my book came out I started teaching at La Cuisine Paris, downtown by the Hotel de Ville. The most popular courses at the moment are macarons and souffles. My favorite classes are menus for a full meal. I like to show people dishes that give French food its peerless reputation - dishes based on classics, but with some modern American twists. That's what got me my job with the countess, after all!

If you had to make an impromptu dinner for 8 tonight, what would you make?

To start, a favorite pumpkin soup with curry and coconut milk. It's fast and easy but makes a big impression. I have two bags of cranberries languishing in the refrigerator from the holidays, and I'm wanting to make a chutney. So probably I would make a favorite roast duck breast recipe I've created, marinating the duck in pomegranate, soy sauce and a bit of wasabi. It will be great with cranberry chutney. Stir-fried radicchio with it. My favorite short-notice dessert is a flourless chocolate souffle cake, rolled with whipped cream.

For more information on Chef Randall Price, visit his website or follow him on Twitter @RandallPrice.

CHEF RANDALL PRICE'S MAGRET DE CANARD A L'APICIUS

Serves 4

My version of a dish from a 4th-century cookbook. I love the combination of sweet-hot-salt and the way the marinade caramelizes on the duck skin.

2 boneless duck breasts, weighing about 1 1/2 pounds total
3 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons Nuoc-Nam sauce
2 teaspoons wasabi powder
1/4 cup pomegranate marmalade*
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup dry sherry
1 cup veal stock, or chicken stock

Score the skin of the duck breasts in a cross-hatch pattern, cutting just to the flesh.

Combine the honey, Nuoc-Nam sauce, wasabi powder, marmalade, and soy sauce and pour over the duck breasts. Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Remove the duck breasts from the marinade, reserving all the liquid. Place the duck breasts together, skin sides out, and tie securely. (Tying this way before roasting ensures a nice rare center to the meat when you slice it.)

Heat a frying pan with the vegetable oil and add the duck breast. Cook over medium heat, browning the duck slowly on all sides, about 5 minutes. Pour off the excess fat.

Transfer the duck to the hot oven and roast for about 12 minutes for medium-rare. Remove from the oven and allow to rest before slicing.

In a saucepan, boil the sherry and stock and reduce by half. Add the reserved marinade and cook until the liquid has thickened.

Slice the duck breast and place on a serving platter, drizzling the sauce over. Serve immediately.

*Note: To make pomegranate ‘marmalade,’ take one quart of pomegranate juice and boil to reduce to one cup.

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Into the Woods...

Hope everyone had a fabulous Valentine's Day! I have a friend who told me she cooked the entire V-day meal I posted on the blog, and it made me over-the-moon happy. Let me know if anyone else cooked anything from the menu, and how it turned out!! I love hearing your stories :)

B and I had a great time together. In all honesty, since I had already made the 3-course V-day menu over the weekend, last night we just ate takeout sushi and drank bubbly in our PJ's. And watched New Girl, which we both love. B surprised me with delicious chocolate truffles from Payard, as well as beautiful tulips and some really cool grains and legumes from Gilt Taste...he is too much. I made him his favorite chocolate chip cookies, which he seemed pretty happy with.

Now I'm packing my bags and heading upstate, into the woods for a few days. I'm excited to be surrounded by trees, to sit by a fire, and to enjoy the absence of city noise. Just to be still for a moment. But most of all, I'm looking forward to cooking big pots of soup and braised short ribs and vegetable purees and homemade pizzas all those hearty winter foods that taste better in a cabin, at a big, long cande-lit table. There will be good friends and laughter and music and lots of great food. And hopefully some snow...

I'm going off the grid for the next few days (no cell phone connection, even!) and will hopefully come back inspired and rejuvenated and full of new ideas. Enjoy the rest of your week!

The Best Cold Remedy: Homemade Chicken Noodle Soup

After our whirlwind holiday travels, I've been excited to get back home and get back to work. I've had big plans for the blog–for healthy new recipes and tips to stick to your New Year's healthy eating goals–as well as all sorts of projects I want to do around the apartment, like clean out the closet, the pantry, the bathroom, and the file cabinet. (OK, in all honesty, Brandon's the one who usually initiates these organization projects, but I'm all for following his lead!) I have lists of stories to pitch, emails to send, books to start reading, and resolutions to begin, like more running and yoga. And then the cold hit.

The day after we got home (Monday), I woke up with a stuffy nose. Which turned into a sneezing, dripping, red-nosed, puffy-eyed head cold. Luckily it hasn't spread to my throat or chest, but it's left me feeling bad enough to pretty much stay in my PJ's, down zinc and vitamin C, chug water, and blow through boxes of tissues. And eat lots of grapefruit and blood oranges.

Though the blog has stayed a bit neglected (I haven't had the energy to cook plus photograph and write) and the clean-out projects have been left undone for the moment, I have been reading. And brainstorming and journaling. The cold has forced me to actually slow down for the first time in a long while, and pay attention to the parts of me–namely, my heart and my soul–that often get pushed into the background as more immediate concerns demand my attention.



It has been amazing to have time to reflect on 2011: on struggles and victories and things I learned, on goals–some reached and others left undone, on friendships deepened, on trips taken, on books read, on dinners shared. And most of all, on the Lord's goodness and faithfulness. Brandon and I took time this week to reflect on our first year of marriage (with all its joys and upheavals), and to talk about through our goals and dreams for 2012.

Though my head is still stuffy and my nose is still raw, I feel so inspired by all that 2012 holds. I feel like this is going to be a year of purpose, of healing, and of dreams fulfilled. And of course, lots more cooking and writing and yellow table dinner parties!

As much as I love getting my apartment cleaned out and re-organized at the beginning of the year, I've loved even more this quiet, reflective time. I haven't stopped cooking, but my cooking has been simple and cleaner–lots of veggies and soups and grains–and I've replaced wine (for the time being) with water and herbal tea and my new favorite drink Kombucha. As I mentioned in my last blog post, we're following a special Lyme diet full of vitamin- and mineral-filled anti-inflammatory foods (veggies, grains, fruits, lean proteins, healthy fats) and little to no sugar, dairy, or white carbohydrates. If it weren't for this cold, I'm sure I'd be feeling incredible by now...



Anyway, my real purpose in writing this blog post is that I wanted to share with you my favorite at-home cold remedy (besides citrus fruits and Kombucha): homemade chicken noodle soup. It is super-easy to make, and there is something so comforting about warm broth filled with veggies, noodles, and shredded chicken. I love adding spinach at the end for extra vitamins and color. I made this soup a few days ago, and have been eating it every day since.

Keep in mind that this soup is intended to be restorative, so it will only be as good as the quality of the ingredients you put in it. Meaning, buying broth or meat from mass-produced chickens (often pumped with hormones and antibiotics) is not going to help you get well. I recommend buying free-range organic chicken stock (or making your own) and roasting organic chicken breasts to shred and put in the soup.

Healthy or not, I would recommend easing into 2012. Take time to think, pray, journal, and reflect. And to make a pot of chicken noodle soup. You will thank yourself.

HOMEMADE CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP WITH SPINACH

Serves 6

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
2 carrots, peeled, halved and diced
2 ribs celery, halved and diced
1/2 yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
6 thyme sprigs, leaves removed (discard stems)
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 quarts chicken stock, homemade or store-bought (free-range, organic)
8 ounces dried wide egg noodles
1 1/2 cups shredded, cooked, organic chicken (can be white or dark meat, roasted, boiled, or store-bought rotisserie)
2 cups baby spinach leaves

Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Saute the carrots, celery, onion, garlic, and thyme for 5 minutes or so until the vegetables are softened, but not brown. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the egg noodles; reduce heat to simmer and let cook for 5 minutes or until the noodles have softened a bit. Stir in the chicken and the spinach and simmer for a couple more minutes to cook through. Season generously with salt and pepper to taste.

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Happy Holidays from The Yellow Table!

I have a love/hate relationship with Christmas cards. Don’t get me wrong–I LOVE getting them. Our fridge is currently covered with adorable pictures of our friends’ kids (and/or dogs) that have come pouring in the past few weeks. It’s the sending that I hate. Or, rather, it's a) the fact that I don’t ever quite get around to sending cards and b) the accompanying guilt that I hate. Every year, I buy a box of cards that sit, untouched, during the hubbub of the holidays. By the time January rolls around (and I finally have the time to sit down and write them) I realize that it’s a bit tacky to send cards that say “Merry Christmas” a month late. So I pack them up with the decorations, vowing to get an early start the next year.

I think Julia Child had the right idea–facing timing issues as well, she started sending out her holiday cards in February. She and her husband would take a take a funny picture (like, say, in a bubble bath), add a heart or two to make it into a Valentine, and send it out to all their friends and family. I love Julia–bold, unconventional, and always up for a laugh.

I, however, held on to the idea–once again–of sending out Christmas cards in December this year. I mean, if my friends with kids can actually make it happen, what excuse could I possibly have?! So I bought another box of cards and started planning our picture. I had this whole Christmas-y vision of Brandon and I, smiling and sitting beside a beautiful tree, with our two calm, purring cats. (HA!) There were just a few tiny problems with my vision. One, we needed someone to come over and take the picture (the least of our problems). Two, we weren’t entirely sure the cats would sit still long enough to have their picture taken. (Historically, the answer has been no.) And three, up until last Saturday, we didn’t have a tree.

We had decided not to get one this year–partially because Brandon has been so sick, and partially because we’re heading out of town and weren’t sure hauling a seven-foot-tall, 60-pound tree down the block and up five flights of stairs would be worth the effort. (Not to mention our fear of the cats climbing the tree and systematically knocking off every single ornament and chewing through the light chords...)

In the end, Brandon completely surprised me. While I was out at brunch with friends last Saturday, he went out and bought a beautiful little tree, carried it home, and strung it with lights. He knew how much a tree meant to me (even though I had very practically stated the reasons we didn't need one this year) and decided to make it happen. When I walked in and saw the tree all lit up, with Christmas music playing, it was one of the most special moments of my life. That one act, for me, symbolized so much that Christmas stands for. I do, indeed, have an amazing husband! And to add to the Christmas miracle: other than some serious sniffing, the cats have largely left the tree alone.

We finally took the picture last night. It was spontaneous–our friend Jess was over for dinner so we roped her into being the photographer. Of course, cats being cats, they wanted no part of being still–they squirmed, they scratched, they jumped, and finally ran away. Which is why most of the pictures feature Brandon and I–alternately laughing and grimacing–and two blurs of fur. But in the end, the pictures are so us. They’re not perfect, they at least made us laugh, and they’ll probably not go out in the mail until January. But they show what’s most important to us: family, friends, unexpected gifts, laughter, and spontaneity. (And cats!)

May this holiday season be a time of peace, joy, and hope for you and your family. I hope, like me, you'll get to spend lots of time in the kitchen–cooking and baking and talking and laughing–and even more time sitting around the table enjoying great food and conversation with the people you love the most. I hope you'll have time to enjoy the simple pleasures (sitting by the fire, drinking good hot chocolate, maybe singing a Christmas carol or two) and not stress out about all the things that ultimately don't matter. And I hope that if you're celebrating Christmas, you'll have time to reflect on that little baby, born in a humble manger thousands of years ago, that continues to change hearts and lives today.

Merry Christmas!!!




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Q&A with Signe Birck

These days, with myriads of foodies tweeting photos of restaurant dishes and bloggers featuring ever-increasingly sophisticated photography, it seems that everyone wants to be a food photographer. And yet, when you look at the stunning images of Danish photographer Signe Birck, you quickly realize that she is the real deal. Not only is she passionate about shooting food–as evidenced by her crisp, clean images (with no clutter to distract from the food itself)–but she's also an avid home cook herself. Birck divides her time between Copenhagen and NYC and has shot numerous cookbooks and editorial spreads. She's worked extensively with chefs in Copenhagen to document the New Nordic movement and was recently in NYC to shoot Noma co-founder Mads Refslund and his upcoming Soho restaurant ACME.


Photo by Lee Edward

I owe my brother a dept of gratitude for introducing me to Birck. They met serendipitously in NYC last Thanksgiving (it's a great story I'll have to share one day!) and he instantly knew that he needed to connect the two of us. I had the pleasure of collaborating with Birck in October–she shot a fall storytelling dinner party here around the yellow table, and thanks to her mad skills, my food has never looked more beautiful. We met up several more times during her time in NYC and started brainstorming about future collaborations. Though we can't reveal any details at the moment, let's just say a cookbook may be in our future...!

Birck is back in Copenhagen at the moment, but we chatted (via email) about cooking, dinner parties, her philosophies behind food photography, and some of her very cool projects–past and present. My fingers are crossed that she'll be back on this side of the pond soon...we have many more projects ahead.

Where were you born?

I grew up in the very southern part of Denmark, near the German border. Our house was surrounded by fields, and was located next to a big forest. It was ideal conditions for raising children, and I spent all my time tending to my horses. I loved it growing up, but I'm not sure if I'll ever move back to the country. Big city life works very well for me.

How did you get into food photography?

Growing up, I remember how I would always arrange my dinner plate with great attention, and tell my parents: "Look, it's like a food picture!" Maybe I already knew at the age of 7...

During my time in the photography industry, I have been in touch with many different genres. In the beginning I thought I would get into fashion, then while I was a student I worked at a studio that mainly handled furniture and interior design photography. On the side I would sometimes assist a food photographer, and I was very impressed with the beautiful work she did–it was so different from what I was used to. During my training, I worked solely with studio flash equipment as my light source (which I am grateful to have been taught). But I found it fascinating to observe how she was able to control daylight to perfection, no matter the conditions she was working under. And suddenly I began to "see" food–and how amazing it can look when photographed. After graduation I was employed at a studio, working primarily with food clients. This was somewhat of a coincidence, but I soon realized that this was my calling.




What do you love most about photographing food? What's the hardest thing?

I think what I love the most is the ability to–through something as simple as a photograph–speak directly to the most basic needs and desires of human existence. A beautiful food photo will make you hungry! These days the debate of sustainability, organic meat and produce, obesity vs. starvation, and the general focus on healthy living is highly present. I find it fascinating how the awareness of environmental issues, combined with a heightened focus on animal rights and the wish to support your local farmer, as opposed to the big bad mass produced food industry, is growing day by day. I don't mean to go all political about this, but to me, these issues go hand in hand with the way I look upon my work. I'm able to combine my love for beautiful photography with my need to participate in continually raising the awareness of food being not only something you eat, but a Global "hot potato", really. Working in the wake of The New Nordic Movement, I'm being confronted with these matters all the time, and I admire how modern chefs and food producers seem to take this very seriously.

I love working alongside chefs and stylists who share my excitement, to feel the set is vibrating of ideas flying through the air. I know it's super nerdy, but it's great to be able to discuss whether this peppercorn should be on the left or the right side of the plate, with someone who won't find you weird!


What is the coolest project you've worked on so far?

Well, there has been quite a few, but if I have to name one, it would be a cookbook project I worked on with the food photographer I mentioned previously. I was actually assisting her, as she was 7 months pregnant at the time, and she needed me to manage all of the physically challenging aspects of the job. Make no mistake–photography can be extremely tough at times!

The job was a book being created in collaboration with a cook book developer, and the topic was "Woman–claim your coals!" Basically it was meant to inspire women to kick their husbands away from the grill, as it seems that men always turn into master chefs, whenever there is a BBQ involved...! The book was being created in a beautiful summer house, and it just turned out to be a great week. We were four women involved, and it was hilarious. Ideas were exchanged, lovely food and pictures were being created, the location was gorgeous–the ocean just outside the windows. It was a lot of fun, and I remember this to be a turning point for me, in terms of the photographer I would like to become. You don't need a big expensive setup, truckloads of gear and a crew of 30 people. Put a bunch of passionate women of different age in a summer house for a week, and creativity will have the best of conditions.




Any upcoming projects you'd care to share?

Currently I am working on a number of different projects. Unfortunately I am not able to reveal anything about them just yet. These days, tendencies shift so rapidly, and what may seem as the greatest idea today, could easily turn out to be "yesterday's news" tomorrow. I actually find this very motivating, as it keeps me on my toes.

One project that I am looking so much forward to, though, is the book you and I are planning on doing together. I just love how the idea spawned from a mutual interest in making a difference, and the fact that we are on the same page in terms of the inspiration we would like to bring to home cooks everywhere–this is the ultimate definition of a dream project. I can't wait for us to start turning this idea into reality!

What type of food do you prefer shooting?

This is a very difficult question, actually, as it all depends on the story being told. I take on every task with the same amount of interest, as it is my job to make everything I work on as perfect as possible.

Of course some foods, by nature, look better than others. Baby greens, sprouts, flowers and seafood tend to make beautiful pictures, almost every time. I find "brown" food, like roasted meat and gravy for instance, a lot more challenging. But these can also be very beautiful in the right setting, with the right props and photographed in the perfect light. I rarely enjoy "rustic" food myself, but I enjoy the challenge of making it look appetizing and pretty, and to my experience, it often seems to turn out very nice, because it has been given that extra attention.

What are you ideal shooting conditions?

In terms of lighting, daylight is always preferred, whether I work on location or in the studio. I set up my table by the window, but pulled into the shadow, avoiding direct light. I prefer the weather outside to be overcast, because it makes the color tones cool, and the highlights beautiful. The shadows will come out soft, yet intense. A piece of white card board is placed on the opposite side of the object, to bounce off a bit of light into the shadows. I always strive to emphasize the highly unique Scandinavian feeling in my pictures, and I prefer my images to be presented in a colder tone. If it's a sunny day, and the light is super bright and slightly warm, keeping away from direct light will do the trick, and it's generally just easier to control. If I for some reason must shoot after sunset, I create a daylight-feeling using flash light bouncing off of white walls or big styrofoam panels. This will work as a decent substitute, but I'm not a fan.




What kind of camera do you use? Favorite lens(es)?

I work with different kinds of camera types, according to the conditions. Working at the studio, I prefer a Sinar–a so-called technical camera–with a Phase One digital back. I also use Hasselblad in combination with the Phase One back. This allows me to hook up the camera to the computer, for immediate view of the image.

Working on location, time is almost always of the essence, and I find it easier to bring "Old Faithful"–my old Canon. It's handheld, no computers or wires, and it allows me to work faster and more efficiently. However, this calls for a little more post work in Photo Shop afterwards, as I will need to make up for the lack of control that I otherwise have, being able to see the image immediately on the monitor.

How would you describe your photography style?

I find it difficult to describe my own style, but I guess it would be feminine and simple–extremely simple. I like for the object to stand out and communicate on its own, not drowning it in a lot of props. Props are perfect–and necessary–as a way of building a universe in which the food can come to life, but I try to make it nothing more than a subtle, understated hint.

Being raised in Scandinavia, I am of course influenced by the tradition of simplicity and "clean" expressions within design, art and cuisine. I find this to be evident in my style, and also in my life in general. I actually don't go to a whole lot of trouble in creating this ambiance in my work, but for some reason it just always seems to turn out that way.

This being said, I am constantly under the influence of what I see, read and hear, so who's to say what my style will be like in a couple of years? I am quite convinced it will forever stay relatively simple, though.



Do you like to cook? If so–what sort of meal would you cook if a few friends were coming over tonight?

I love to cook! I like to experiment, to open my fridge and make something nice from whatever is in there. I call it the "fridge-shake-down", and - for the most parts - something edible actually emerges from the pots and pans. I'm a vegetarian, so my cooking consists of a lot of vegetables, sometimes with eggs and dairy. I'm not vegan, and it's not a result of ethical or religious view-points. I just don't like meat...

When I have people over, I like to create a meal that we can sit and enjoy for more than half an hour. As a result, I prefer making a number of tapas-like dishes, that invite people to relax and engage in good conversation, while slowly eating and sipping wine. And also, these dishes can easily be made in advance, which means that I don't have to be tied to the kitchen while my friends have a good time in the next room. I believe that food must be homemade–it's healthier and it tastes better!

I guess I would serve some nice freshly baked bread, along with homemade hummus, pesto and different tapenades of black olives and sun-dried tomatoes, along with a selection of cheeses. Salads are required, and I would probably put together a green salad with hearts of artichoke, slices of Parmesan and roasted pumpkin seeds. Very simple. I would like to serve something hot as well, which would probably be mini-quiches with spinach and feta cheese. For dessert we would have "monkey meal", basically a fruit salad served with a vanilla custard and coarsely grated dark chocolate.

If I was short of time, as would probably be the case on a week day, I guess I would just put together a nice pizza of potato, rosemary and goat cheese.
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Q&A with Melissa Clark

If you've ever read Melissa Clark's "A Good Appetite" column in the New York Times (which I do, religiously)–or thumbed through any of her 32 cookbooks–then you know that she's a terrific cook and a captivating writer. She's also hilarious. Reading her stories over the years–of running a catering business out of her fifth floor walk-up apartment, of her childhood brush with vegetarianism (it never quite stuck), or the whiskey-soaked chocolate cake that earned her major cool points in high school–you quickly realize that her recipes are comprised as much from memories as they are ingredients. Clark's warm writing style draws you into the kitchen with her, and makes you feel that making duck confit or homemade spaetzle are entirely possible feats.



Clark's latest cookbook, Cook This Now, is a collection of "120 Easy and Delectable Dishes You Can't Wait to Make" and was inspired by simple dishes she cooks at home for her family and friends. Arranged seasonally, and full of recipes I personally can't wait to try (the sticky cranberry gingerbread is high on my list), Cook This Now is the sort of cookbook that is equally fun to curl up with before bed as it is to cook from at dinner. In addition to her weekly New York Times column and cookbook-writing, she's mom to a 3-year old and a contributing editor at Gilt Taste. Oh, and she also has a blog. (I'm not sure when she sleeps?!) I caught up with her recently and we chatted (via email) about her latest cookbook, her favorite make-at-the-last-minute dinner, and the biggest challenge of all: cooking for a toddler.


How long have you been cooking? What first drew you into the kitchen?

I've been cooking since I was a kid–I think I was was eight when I made my first cake. A purple cake, without the baking powder (accidentally). It was flat as a pancake, but I loved the color and was very pleased at myself for cooking anything at all. I think the desire to control what I ate drew me into the kitchen. My childhood home was a desert of rice cakes and health foods, with parents who, when they weren't cooking from Julia Child's cookbook for elaborate dinner parties, were on diets. If I wanted cake, I had to learn how to make it myself. My sweet tooth gets the credit!

Your career seems pretty equally divided between cooking and writing. Do you consider yourself more of a cook or a writer, and why?

Definitely a writer first. If I had to choose (and I really hope I never do!) I would choose writing over cooking. Though I know all my metaphors would still be food related because that's the way I think.

As a freelancer, you're always juggling different hats. What aspects of your job do you most love? What are a few challenges?

I love the constant discovery part. Every time I cook something, I learn something–and then think about a way to tell people exactly what that is. I love fantasizing about food, sitting around dreaming up delicious things to eat–and then to go home and make them (usually they work, sometimes they don't). I love the process of sitting down to write an article (actually it's a love/hate relationship, but I think most writers feel that way about starting something). I love working creatively.

The challenges are many and I love them too! I guess the hardest part for me is juggling so many projects, which I need to do as a freelancer. Not that I'd want to go work in an office everyday, but it would be nice to have fewer, bigger projects that I could immerse myself in without being pulled in so many different directions.

You write about a different recipe every week in your "A Good Appetite" column in the New York Times. Where do you find your inspiration for these columns?

Everywhere! I see the world through a lens of food. A ginger colored sweater can inspire a cookie. A ruffled flower can make me want to eat a salad. Some people wear rose colored glasses. My analogue would be glasses that turn everything into meals.



Your latest cookbook, Cook This Now, just came out in October. On your blog, you said that you are particularly excited about this book because it's the food you actually cook at home for your family. What are a few dishes in the book that are special family favorites?

That's exactly why I love the book–because it's exactly what I cooked last year. All the recipes are simple, fast, and striving to be slightly health-conscious, while still being incredibly full-flavored and interesting. But fast and easy seasonal food is the foundation of the book because that's how I really cook.

And favorites...that's tough. I love all my little babies (recipes, that is). I guess right now I'm really into the roasted cauliflower with cumin, salted yogurt and pomegranate. It's so warming and hearty while still being super easy to throw together (you can leave out the pomegranates if you can't get them...). Another favorite is the carrot mac & cheese. My daughter LOVES this so we make it often, and it's fairly nutritious for mac & cheese because of the carrots and whole wheat pasta, but tastes great because I don't skimp on the good cheddar cheese!

I love the way that Cook This Now is divided into chapters not just by seasons, but by months! Have you always eaten this seasonally? Any months that you particularly love from a cooking standpoint?

First of all, to clarify, I only eat semi-seasonally. I'm not strict about it. If I want the cucumber in February, as long as it tastes good, I'll eat it (which rules out tomatoes in winter because they never taste good....). I eat seasonally because food in season tastes better. And it connects me to the earth and grounds me in a way that I find profound, but that is also yummy. And since I buy most of my food at the farmers market, it's kind of my default. And every month is great for cooking seasonally–even the depths of winter can be inspiring (if you love to eat as much as I do, that is)!

How has having a toddler changed your cooking style? Is your daughter an adventurous eater or does she stick to the basics?

She's a typical 3 year old and goes back and forth being adventuresome and meek about what she eats. Right now it's a meek phase, except for salmon roe, which she loves. She's made me streamline my cooking and speed it up. I have less time for cooking than ever! But love it just as much.

What five items are always in your pantry?

Does the fridge count too? Lemons, olive oil, garlic, good flaky salt, pasta. There's a recipe right there! (Hint use the juice and lemon zest).

If you had to cook an impromptu dinner for eight tonight, what would you make?

Pasta! I always have it on hand and you don't need to do much to make it taste good, as long as you use enough salt in the water, and have some good olive oil and garlic around...and maybe some herbs or vegetables. It's very forgiving stuff. Plus, everyone loves it, so I can surely please all eight.

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Thanksgiving: So Much More Than a Meal

Funny how life sometimes throws you curveballs. I had mapped out a whole slew of Thanksgiving posts to write this week: "Turkey Talk: To Brine or Not to Brine," "Healthy Side Dishes," and "How to Host a Beautiful (and Stress-Free) Thanksgiving." Food was made, photos taken...all that remained was to write the text and the recipes. Then this week hit. Brandon's been sick, then I got sick. I had a TV shoot to prep and style and an article to write for an online magazine. Somehow now it's Friday, I'm exhausted, my house is a wreck, and I only blogged once this week (and I still haven't written that article). So much for my Martha Stewart intentions!



But this morning was a blessed reminder of what's important. I met a friend for breakfast who was unexpectedly passing through NYC for a day. Over lattes and cranberry walnut toast (me) and baked eggs (her) we caught up on life and shared our hearts. We talked about our love of cooking and what a creative outlet it is for us. I heard about her amazing work with a non-profit that works with orphans and sex-trafficking victims. We talked about dinner parties and our upcoming Thanksgivings and what a joy it is spending time with friends and family around the table. She's a new mom and she told me how amazing it is seeing the world anew through her daughter's wide eyes. Though her little girl is only one, she already loves being in the kitchen and trying new types of food. As she talked about motherhood, she made it sound like such a beautiful journey that is equal parts humbling, exhilarating, exhausting, and life-giving. I don't have any kids yet (and probably won't for while), but hearing her talk actually made me excited to have a family of my own one day. Marriage definitely teaches you about loving someone more than yourself, but motherhood sounds like it takes it to a whole other level. And here I thought I had life sort of figured out...

I left our conversation inspired–not to go write a blog post on how to host a picture-perfect Thanksgiving, but rather to reflect on the meaning of Thanksgiving. To think about what it means to live a life of thanksgiving, not just celebrate one day with a big turkey and a ton of food. In our crazy busy lives, it is so easy to lose sight of what's important; to base our significance on the mundane–job promotions or paychecks or Twitter followers–and to forget just how blessed we are, as we focus on what we don't have.



It doesn't matter how beautiful a Thanksgiving day table looks–it's who's around it that counts. The picture above is from last year's Thanksgiving which we hosted here, around the yellow table. Brandon and I had just been married a couple of months, and my mom and I had driven the table in a U-Haul truck all the way from Nashville to NYC just in time for Thanksgiving. Having the yellow table in NYC was a dream come true for me, and having all our friends around the table for Thanksgiving was the perfect christening. The table and food may be magazine-worthy, but it doesn't even compare to the sounds of laughter and clinked glasses and stories told, and the sight of so many people I love enjoying the meal and each others' company. This year we are having friends around the yellow table again, and I cannot wait. I am still planning to write those posts on what to make and how to host (hopefully by Monday!), but right now I am just brimming over with thankfulness and had to share.

My biggest blessing this year is my husband Brandon. Our first year of marriage has has been such an adventure–full of incredible joys, as well as some pretty heavy heartaches. No matter how much two people love each other, learning to live with each others' quirks and selfishness and insecurities is going to be a challenge. But God has given me an amazing life partner who loves me deeply and knows me so well–who rejoices with me in my triumphs, lifts me up in my times of discouragement, and is my biggest cheerleader always. B is full of good advice, he's a great taste-tester, an amazing photographer and designer (The Yellow Table would certainly not exist without him!), ridiculously smart (and good-looking!), and always knows how to make me laugh. And in spite of dealing with a chronic illness, he refuses to give up the fight and continues to make plans to change the world. I know he will–he's certainly changed mine.



Other things I am amazingly thankful for (in no particular order): two loving families–one in Nashville and one in Kalamazoo, the best friends a girl could ever ask for (you know who you are and I love you!!), two very feisty kittens who have destroyed all our furniture but still manage to be adorable, the chance to live in the greatest city ever: (besides Paris!) NYC, getting to do what I love (cooking and writing) every day and having a blog that allows me to do both, steady freelance work, a cozy apartment with enough space for the yellow table, a fantastic church, dinner parties, opportunities to travel, daily doses of good coffee, wine, and chocolate, runs over the Brooklyn Bridge, yoga classes, avocado toasts at Cafe Gitane, margarita pizza from L'Asso, bubbly (as often as possible), live music, pumpkin season, walks through Central Park when the leaves are changing, the very real power of prayer, inspiring conversations, daily unexpected moments of beauty, belly laughs, and most of all, my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ.

I've probably left out a lot of things but suffice it to say, I am so thankful. For the gift of life and the many gifts that life brings. I am looking forward to celebrating all of this not only next Thursday, but every day. We have no idea how many days we have left, so give thanks today.
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Q&A with Chef Todd Perrin

On my recent whirlwind trip to Newfoundland, I was blown away by the culinary talent in its capital city, St. John's. After cooking stints in mainland Canada or abroad, many young Newfoundlander chefs are returning home to open restaurants highlighting the island's fantastic local ingredients. Roots run deep on this island, and the chefs I met there were proud of the sheer natural beauty of their home–with its rugged landscape of cliffs and coves and glaciers and all manner of wildlife–and wouldn't want to live anywhere else.



Todd Perrin, owner of The Chef's Inn and a recent competitor in Season 1 of Top Chef Canada, is not only proud of his home, he's quite the ambassador. The first weekend of October, he organized the Roots, Rants, and Roars festival, a celebration of NL food and music which brought chefs from all over Canada to compete for the "King of Cod" title, and then headed to NYC with a bevy of NL chefs to cook for a James Beard Foundation dinner. But things don't look like they're slowing down any time soon for Perrin–he's working on a new restaurant, set to open next summer. I caught up with him recently to talk about his chef's table dinners, his favorite local dish, and what it was like competing on Top Chef Canada. (I also managed to nab a recipe for his fabulous seafood soup...see below.)

When did you start cooking? What inspired you to become a chef?

I started cooking school in 1994 at the Culinary Institute of Canada. I was inspired by good cooking at home by my folks, but mostly because I love to eat good food and always have.

You live in St. John's, Newfoundland. Can you share with us some of your favorite local ingredients and dishes?
Living in NL of course Cod is King! Having said that the supply has been short for the past number of years, but beginning to show some great signs of recovery. My favourite local dish would have to be a simple “peasant” dish of fish stew consisting of loads of onions, salt fat pork, salt beef, potato and fresh cod. The ultimate NL comfort food!

You were recently on Top Chef Canada...what was that experience like for you? What advice would you give a chef who is considering being on a competitive cooking TV show?

It was an amazing experience! Super-tough, but fun at the same time. I met some great friends/chefs that I keep in contact with still and get to work with from time to time. For chefs considering a run at reality TV, my advice is to be yourself and do your thing. There’s more than one way to “win” the show.

Currently you and your wife run a B&B called The Chef's Inn, where you cook regular Chef's Table dinners. How do you like this style of cooking versus being on the line in a busy restaurant?

It’s great! You get to cook your food the way you want and you literally get to touch every element in every dish. It’s a great way to cook, less stress and ultimate quality control. Having said that, we are about to start building a restaurant hoping to open next summer.

You and several other chefs from Newfoundland and Labrador recently came to NYC to cook for a James Beard Foundation Dinner? What was the experience like? Best moment? Biggest challenge?

Awesome. I mean it’s like a baseball player going to Yankee Stadium. It’s an important stop on any culinary map and I can’t wait to do it again. We are working on a return engagement for next year. Best moment- Showing up and seeing the sign on the front door –a “We made it” moment. Challenge – traveling the ingredients and equipment around Manhattan. No easy feat!

If you had to prepare an impromptu dinner party for eight, what would you make?

If it was today – White Bean and Kale Soup...Seared Cod on Root Vegetable Ragu and an Orange, Fennel, Coriander Reduction...Confit Duck, Gnocchi, Parmigiano Reggiano....Pork Rillons, Parsnip Puree, Roasted Garlic, Grilled Beets.


What do you want readers to know about Newfoundland that they may not know?
Just what all of us who live here know – It’s one of the most amazing places on Earth that almost no one has seen.

Visit Todd's website or follow him on Twitter @toddperrin.

TODD'S SEAFOOD SOUP

Serves 8 to 10

1 onion
1 leek
1 bulb fennel
2 stalks celery
1 carrot
2 tablespoons fennel seed
1/2 tablespoon dried chilli flakes
1 cup white wine
1 cup fish stock
2 (28 oz.) cans whole tomatoes, crushed
20 cherry tomatoes, halved
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Salt, pepper
2 lbs. Atlantic cod or halibut, 1-inch dice
8 oz. crab leg meat, shredded

Finely dice all of the vegetables and sauté in a large pot over medium-high heat until slightly softened. Add the fennel seeds and chilli flakes and stir. Add the white wine and fish stock; simmer and let reduce by half.

Add the crushed tomatoes and cherry tomato halves and bring to simmer. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the brown sugar and balsamic vinegar, stirring well. Simmer for 30 to 45 minutes.

Add the cod (or halibut) and continue simmering until the fish is just cooked through, around 7 or 8 minutes. Reserve a couple of ounces of crab meat for garnish, and add the remaining crab meat to soup and just heat through. Warm the reserved crab meat in a little simmering fish stock.

Serve the soup; garnish each bowl with a little of the reserved, warmed crab meat and fennel frond.

Week in Review (or Why I Love Fall in NYC)

This was one of those weeks where I was reminded why I love living in NYC. It's fall, the days are cooler, the leaves are changing, and the city is bursting with energy. Working in the food and travel industry, I get invited to some pretty cool events. Though I've never done a "Week in Review" post, I had too many delicious experiences this week not to share. One of these was the chance to taste real jasmine tea at Megu, made by pouring hot water of a dried jasmine flour. Amazing! They gave me a dried flower of my own so I could recreate the experience at home. (The picture–which I LOVE–was taken by the wonderfully talented Mr. Brandon Carl.)

Here are a few of the highlights:

Louis de Sacy tasting. This family-run Champagne house has been making incredible bubblies since 1633. Their Champagnes are crisp, dry, and elegant–and reasonably priced, to boot. My favorites: the Cuvée Nue (i.e. "Naked") which has no added sugar, and the salmon-colored Rosé Grand Cru. Great Christmas gift ideas!

Lunch at Megu. Hands down the best Japanese food I have ever tasted. Everything is imported from Japan and impeccably presented. Don't miss: sizzling kobe beef on a volcanic rock, tempura asparagus spears, insanely fresh sashimi, yuzu creme brulée, and the 21-layer green tea crepe cake (no joke).

Dinner at Le Bernadin with two-Michelin-star Chef Michel Sarran from Toulouse. The dinner was highlighting the Midi-Pyrenees region of France, and included some delicious lamb dishes and wonderful wines from the region, like Jurancon Sec (white) and an unusual red varietal called Negrette.

Lots of cooking! I made Roasted Eggplant Dip, Whole Wheat Chicken Pot Pies with Kale, and Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Spiced Pears–and entered my favorite Nutella Shortbread Brownies in the Food52 Holiday Baking Contest!

Had the perfect rainy night dinner at home last night with my love: whole wheat spaghetti carbonara with sautéed kale (recipe to come).

And last, but not least, I've excited to see my family this weekend in Fredericksburg, Virginia! I've never been, but I will report back on any tasty discoveries I make.

Happy Halloween weekend everyone!!

Q&A with Jill Donenfeld (+ A New Cookbook!)

It's tough to describe my friend Jill Donenfeld in just a few words. (Though impressive does come to mind...) By age 22, the personal chef and entrepreneur had already started her own business (The Culinistas) and written a cookbook (Mankafy Sakofo: Delicious Meals from Madagascar). Donenfeld founded The Culinistas in 2006 in New York City with the goal of bringing healthy, home cooked, customizable meals into the homes of busy professionals. The concept was a hit. Now, five years later, Donenfeld has expanded The Culinistas to Los Angeles and Chicago, and is coming out with her second cookbook: Party Like a Culinista (Lake Isle Press). Co-authored with fellow culinista Josie Gordon, the new book is all about parties: how to throw them, what to serve, and how to enjoy yourself in the process. Full of healthy and delicious recipes (like the Potato Kalamata Pizza below) and all sorts of tips on how to keep things stress-free, this is an invaluable read for anyone who loves to entertain–or is too intimidated to try. An avid foodie and intrepid world traveler, Donenfeld divides her time between NYC and LA, with regular inspiration trips abroad. I caught up with her last week and we chatted about her cooking, her new book, and the best foodie finds from her summer travels.



You started your personal chef service The Culinistas back in 2006, when you were just out of college...what inspired you to launch this business?

My family. I grew up eating with my parents and brothers around the dinner table every night. I didn't realize it was a luxury until I moved to NYC at 18 and experienced families living a much more scattered and disparate lifestyle than mine. A few families for whom I babysat asked me to come cook for them and that was the foundation for the company.

When did you first start cooking? What are some of your favorite things to cook?

My first memory cooking is of course with my mom. Cookies. But it was in high school that I got really into it. I used to make brownies a LOT. That usually resulted in my whole crew coming over to the house and hanging around the kitchen for hours on the weekend... ah, heaven.

Of course, you can't make brownies for dinner (at least not every night). I like to cook simply: big stir fries, pasta salads, quinoa salads. I love grilling shrimp and salmon. I use a lot of fresh herbs and spices I smuggle back from various travels. I have a stock pile of cardamom right now that I brought back from Tamil Nadu so I am working my way through that.

You are quite the world traveler, which I know provides inspiration for your cooking. This summer alone you were in Paris, India, and all over the U.S. What were some of your favorite foodie finds?

I was in India during their mango season and had the pleasure of indulging in many varieties, which was just mind-blowing. One day we lined up six types and sliced into them all for a taste test. I also got pretty into coconut oil while there - for cooking and for your skin and hair.

In Paris, I found fresh goat cheese at the Marché at Raspail on Sundays. By fresh I mean like loose, ricotta-textured goat cheese. That was breakfast pretty much every morning. And I was loving MINUTY rosé. But not for breakfast - at least not everyday.

The lobster on the East Coast was legit this summer and I was a maniac, going to Five Island in Maine and Luke's in Manhattan. And it seems like romaine hearts became widely available recently. I've been incorporating those sweet leaves into salads, and serving them as scoopers for appetizer-y dips and spreads and egg salad.

Your new cookbook Party Like a Culinista comes out this weekend (Oct. 16) and specializes in healthy, fun party foods. Tell us a little about it.

I wrote it with Josie Gordon, who's worked with The CULINISTAS since it's inception. The book is full of easIER, healthIER recipes, divided into short menus packed with little tips and tricks.

You're a party-planning pro, both on the catering and hostessing end. Any tips you want to share with us on how to have a stress-free party?

I always try to see things from the guest's point of view–they are there to have fun. And they will have fun if you have fun. So get into it! Also, having wine and a snack ready for the early birds is good so that you can finish up cooking–that can be a big help. Homemade popcorn is always my go to.

Now for the question I love to ask everyone: If you had to throw an impromptu dinner for eight tonight, what would you make?

I have a whole chapter about that! But since I'm answering these questions from gorgeous, sunny Sag Harbor I'll say: Cucumber and herbs salad (lots of herbs. Use herbs like lettuce!). Grilled clams and grilled corn with tarragon aioli. Fried zucchini and eggplant with citrus zest. Or just grill everything.

For the pre-dinner nibble, roast a few heads of garlic, pick up two baguettes, two soft cheeses, and serve with castelvatrano olives.

Dessert: raspberry whipped cream with any sweet thing you have in the house: cookies, brownies, ice cream, blueberries...whatever.

POTATO KALAMATA PIZZA

Serves 8

1 pound whole wheat pizza dough (see Note)
1 pound fingerling potatoes
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon fine grain sea salt
1 sprig fresh rosemary
3/4 cup kalamata or black olives, pitted
1 tablespoon fine extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roll the pizza dough into circle about 14 inches in diameter with a rolling pin and place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet.

Slice the potatoes 1/4 inch thick using a mandoline. Toss the potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil and the salt. Spread them out on a rimmed baking sheet and top with the rosemary sprig. Roast for 45 minutes, stirring halfway through.

In a food processor, combine the olives with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to make a quick tapenade. Pulse until mostly smooth.

Spread the tapenade evenly over the pizza dough. Layer on the potatoes. Discard the rosemary.

Reduce oven heat to 350°F and bake the pizza until the crust is browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and drizzle with fine olive oil.

NOTES:

Whole wheat pizza dough can be purchased in many grocery stores. You can also check with your local pizzeria—they may be willing to sell uncooked dough. If you can’t find whole wheat in a pinch, the next best thing is white pizza dough made with organic ingredients.

Though we don't include cheese on our pie, some people might like some shaved Parmesan or pecorino. Add them as soon as the pie comes out of the oven.

*Recipe reprinted with permission from Party Like a Culinista by Jill Donenfeld and Josie Gordon (Lake Isle Press).

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Q&A with Chef Guillaume Delaune

Born in Toulon, France, Chef Guillaume Delaune worked his way through some of the top kitchens in the south of France–Roger Vergé's Moulin de Mougins, Villa da Gallici, and La Chèvre d'Or (plus a stint in Montreal at XO at the St. James Hotel)–before landing his dream job this summer. As the chef at Kingsbrae Arms, a charming Relais & Chateaux hotel in St. Andrews-by-the-Sea, New Brunswick, Delaune prepares daily-changing six-course tasting menus for guests, highlighting the incredible Bay of Fundy seafood (like halibut, scallops, and lobster) and seasonal vegetables (mostly from the his garden). His garden- (and ocean)-to-table approach is evident in his beautiful food. A recent meal there included halibut brandade-stuffed ravioli with fennel confit, bathed in a pool of warm lobster bisque. Another course featured melt-in-your-mouth braised beef cheeks with wild boar bacon and porcini mushrooms (all local, bien sûr!) in a red wine glaze. I was in awe. I caught up with Delaune to ask him a few questions about his sublime cooking–and to beg him to share the recipe for his velvety cured salmon. He obliged.



When did you start cooking? And what drew you to cooking?

I started cooking at the age of 16. I used to cook the fish I caught in the Mediterannean Sea, and in the rivers around my hometown [Toulon, France]. I also had a friend who would give me game–hare, pheasant, and wild boar.

How did growing up in the South of France impact your cooking style?

I think [growing up in Toulon] was the most important influence for me. I really love this part of France. I grew up in the middle of olive trees and vineyards, with thyme, rosemary, and anise growing everywhere. That's why I only use olive oil for cooking–I hardly ever use cream or butter. I want to make people feel like they are in Toulon when they eat my bouillabaisse or pistou soup.

Tell us a bit about your job at Kingsbrae Arms. It's such a unique place. What do you love? Any surprises or challenges?

Kingsbrae Arms is really a dream place for me. It's just what I wanted for so long: to cook at a small Relais & Chateaux property. Because we have a small number of guests, we can really focus on them and make them feel at home. I love the fact that I’ve got a vegetable and herb garden and my very own smoker. As for the challenges, think the biggest one is making a different menu every day, especially when dealing with [food] allergies. Sometimes could have up to 2 or 3 different menus when we had a full house.

You all grow a lot of your own vegetables, fruits, and herbs for the restaurant. What sorts of things from the garden did you use this summer?

I use a lot of herbs: coriander, basil, dill, sage, purple sage, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, oregano–I have such a great variety. The vegetables I use the most are carrots, turnips, beets, provider, masai, blue jays and Roma beans, spinach, and my favorite, the zucchinis–both regular and "ronde de Nice." I also have cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, garlic...too many to name them all! I am already working with Harry, one of the owners, to decide which vegetables we will keep, get rid of, or add to the garden next year.

The caviar tasting was one of the highlights of my meal at Kingsbrae Arms. Tell us a big about your partnership with Breviro Caviar.

It’s a privilege to introduce Breviro Caviar to our guests, and for them to discover the uniqueness of this very rare short-nose sturgeon caviar. I often go to [Breviro’s] facilities; I even recently helped to make some caviar. It's a very difficult task to breed those fish, then to find the right moment to harvest the caviar. But the results are beautiful and they really are passionate about making the best product they can possibly have.

Anything new you plan to do with the menu next year?

I will try to add a nice cheese plate, promoting cheeses from Quebec and New Brunswick rather than European ones which everybody already knows. And I’d also like to make gluten-free bread and pastries instead of buying them. A guest gave me some nice [gluten-free] recipes this summer.

What are five ingredients that are always in your pantry?

Cumin, coriander, extra virgin olive oil from les Baux de Provence, garlic, truffle

If you had to throw an impromptu dinner for 8 tonight, what would you make?

For appetizer, a simple arugula salad with Burrata or buffalo mozzarella,
pine nuts, a Balsamic glaze dressing, very thin slices of serrano ham, marinated tomato (just olive oil, chopped fresh basil, microplaned garlic, salt, pepper and rosemary), sprinkled with some fresh scallions, and finished with a bit of pepper from the peppermill and some Maldon salt.

For the main course, a very creamy truffle risotto, with lots of Parmesan and olive oil, with tiny roasted scallops and fresh baby porcini mushrooms. Just before serving, I’d add a piece of crispy smoked wild boar bacon on top and pepper from the peppermill.

For dessert, a vanilla panna cotta with strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and a berry coulis, finished with a speculoos crumble.

SALMON GRAVLAX

Serves 8

2 pound side salmon, 1-inch thick, skin on
2 cups coarse sea salt
1 cup sugar
1 orange
1 lemon
Bunch of dill, chopped
2 tablespoons course black pepper

Clean and debone the salmon fillet.

In a large bowl, combine the coarse salt with the sugar, the zests and juice of the orange and lemon, the dill, and the pepper.

Lay the salmon skin side up out on a large sheet tray or in a glass baking dish. Rub the salt mixture on both sides of the salmon, packing it on top and around. Cover with plastic wrap and weight down with another sheet tray and a brick or stone on top to press out the moisture. Let cure in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

When ready, rinse the salmon for 5 minutes under cool water, pat dry with paper towels, and let it dry completely for one day in the fridge.

To serve, cut nice thick slices (1/4-inch) and serve with lemon and chive sour cream, olive oil crostini, and some arugula.

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Q&A with Renée Lavallée (a.k.a. The Feisty Chef)

Reneée Lavallée is one of those women who manages to do it all–cook, write, teach, and make frequent television appearances–without breaking a sweat. And did I mention she has two little ones under age three? The Halifax-based chef has cooked in restaurants all over the world, from Toronto to Umbria, Italy, though now she's content to juggle her multiple roles as mom, chef, and writer outside the confines of a restaurant. Passionate about cooking as locally as possible, her blog The Feisty Chef highlights the natural bounty of Nova Scotia and offers great cooking tips and recipes (like the one for pickles below). I caught up with Renée while I was in Nova Scotia earlier this week and we chatted about cooking, dinner parties, and her life-changing run-in with Oasis front-man Liam Gallagher.



The Yellow Table: What first drew you to cooking?

Feisty Chef: I've always enjoyed cooking–every aspect. After doing very poorly at university, the choice was given to me: either buckle down and stay, or finding a new path...cooking. I applied to George Brown in Toronto, and the rest is history.

TYT: How did you get the name "The Feisty Chef"?

FC: Many moons ago, when working in Toronto, the band Oasis came in and I had quite an encounter with Liam Gallagher (the lead singer). After a brief fight over what music to play, he turned to me and said "you are quite a feisty lady...I like that". When I started my blog in 2009, the incident came to mind and the name stuck.

TYT: You've been a chef now for 16 years. What would you tell someone who wants to quit their job and become a chef?

FC: Be prepared to work. It isn't at all like TV...it's stinky, dirty and sometimes very degrading. Before doing anything, check out a "real" restaurant kitchen for a few nights to see what it is like. Better to do your homework before, than quit and hate it after.

TYT: Tell us a bit about your monthly "family dinners." I love the concept of gathering people from the community around big long tables (it's very in line with The Yellow Table philosophy)!

FC: The TIBS Family Dinners came about a year ago. The owners of Two If By Sea Cafe in Dartmouth and I thought it would be cool to host dinners in their space after hours. Each month, I come up with a menu that uses all local and seasonal food, we sell seats (45 max), and I do all the food except dessert (I am horrible at pastries). It is a true family affair–my husband helps, as does Alexis (one owner's wife), and our friends. It is a great community gathering, bringing together people from around the neighborhood and city and seating them together.

TYT: How has having two little kids affected your cooking style?

FC: My food has become simpler, less constructed. Gone are the "fine dining" days and now it is all about bringing out the most [flavor] in the amazing ingredients we have here in Nova Scotia.

TYT: What are five ingredients you always have in your pantry?

FC: Extra virgin olive oil, lemons, chilies, sea salt, Italian parsley.

TYT: What would you make tonight if you had to throw an impromptu dinner party for 8?

FC: It is Fall and the leaves are starting to change color. I'd make something warm and fuzzy...roasted squash salad with pumpkin seeds and walnut oil, and shaved Old Growler Gouda. Roasted pork leg with crackling, Brussels sprouts with bacon, beets and yellow beans. For dessert, salt roasted pears with caramel.

TYT: You teach cooking classes as well–what's a cooking tip you like to share with your students?

FC: Keep it simple! Go into your kitchen with confidence and take some chances, but keep it simple.

Follow Renée on her blog The Feisty Chef or on Twitter @feistychef.

THE FEISTY CHEF'S DILLY PICKLES

Makes approximately 20 (500ml) jars

7 lbs baby cucumbers, washed
3 heads garlic cloves, peeled and kept whole
1 bunch dill about to seed

Brine:
19 cups water
5 1/2 cups white vinegar
1 cups coarse salt

Sterilize the jars and tops and set aside. Make the brine by combining the ingredients and bringing to a boil; set aside. Place the washed cucumbers in the jars, making sure to get as many shoved in there as humanly possible. Don’t be scared to use a little muscle. Add 3 cloves of garlic and a few sprigs of the dill to each jar. Cover with the brine, seal, and process in simmering water for 13-15 minutes.

We ate our first jar after a week and they were great. If you have more will power than us, you could probably leave them for a little longer to maximize the flavour. Enjoy. And remember, you will always be loved if you show up with a jar of homemade pickles!

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Welcome to The Yellow Table!

Welcome to The Yellow Table–a place of laughter, friendship, conversation, celebration, and of course, good food. This table has been a part of my life for 31 years. I grew up having family meals and dinner parties around the yellow table (pictured above), and as a college graduation present in 2002, my mom passed it along to me. Since then, it's been a joy to keep the legacy of the yellow table alive, with countless dinner parties in my various apartments–in Pittsburgh, Nashville, and finally, New York City.

THE STORY

The inspiration for this blog first came in 2007, right before I moved to New York. I was leaving Nashville (and my friends, my job, and my beautiful, big, apartment!) to pursue a career in food journalism. The table, along with all my other stuff, was packed away in storage, and I headed to New York City with a just a few suitcases, a couple hundred dollars, and big dreams.  I had the idea then of starting The Yellow Table, as a place to keep the table's spirit alive while it sat in storage, and an outlet for me to share recipes and stories.

However, I hit the ground running in Manhattan, working as a personal chef, a recipe tester, and a magazine editor, and living in a tiny closet-sized space with a curtain for a door. There was no time for blogging, and no space for dinner parties, but I fell madly in love with the city and soaked up every moment of my new, very busy life. In early 2009, after the economy had crashed and my magazine had folded (i.e. no job for me), I finally started cooking at home again. A new blog, The Recession Cookbook, was born–a collection of simple, fresh, affordable recipes that made penny-pinching enjoyable.

By 2010, the economy had calmed down a bit, I had a new job, and two exciting things happened: I got married to my wonderful husband Brandon (in the picture above) and I was finally able to bring the yellow table to New York City! My mom and I made the 900-mile trip from Nashville to Manhattan with the table in the back of U-Haul truck (then had to get it up six flights of stairs with the help of Brandon and a friend, but that's another story...). We celebrated the arrival of the table last November with ten of our dearest friends and a Thanksgiving feast.

THE BLOG

Now fast-forward to today. After a busy summer of recipe-developing and writing (me), web designing and code tweaking (Brandon), we are so excited to finally launch The Yellow Table. This blog will have the same type of simple, healthy, affordable recipes as its predecessor The Recession Cookbook, but it will be focused less on thrift and more on fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Beyond great recipes, this blog will delve a bit more into my philosophy of “living life around the table.” I love the idea of making the table (rather than the TV) the center of the home, as a place to tell stories, exchange ideas, laugh, and build relationships. Food is the connector, but the table is where the magic happens.

In addition, there will be a great “how-to” section that will teach you useful cooking techniques like how to roast a whole fish, or how to make your own vinaigrettes.  And tasty tidbits from my travels–photos, recipes, and insider tips on where to stay and eat.

I’ve been busy cooking this summer while the produce has been at its peak, so you’ll find a few recipes already on the blog, and of course keep checking in, as I will be posting new recipes and tips several times a week.  I hope The Yellow Table will encourage you to clear off your own table and gather a few friends around for good food and conversation…maybe even tonight!

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