Q&A with Renée Lavallée (a.k.a. The Feisty Chef)

Reneée Lavallée is one of those women who manages to do it all–cook, write, teach, and make frequent television appearances–without breaking a sweat. And did I mention she has two little ones under age three? The Halifax-based chef has cooked in restaurants all over the world, from Toronto to Umbria, Italy, though now she's content to juggle her multiple roles as mom, chef, and writer outside the confines of a restaurant. Passionate about cooking as locally as possible, her blog The Feisty Chef highlights the natural bounty of Nova Scotia and offers great cooking tips and recipes (like the one for pickles below). I caught up with Renée while I was in Nova Scotia earlier this week and we chatted about cooking, dinner parties, and her life-changing run-in with Oasis front-man Liam Gallagher.



The Yellow Table: What first drew you to cooking?

Feisty Chef: I've always enjoyed cooking–every aspect. After doing very poorly at university, the choice was given to me: either buckle down and stay, or finding a new path...cooking. I applied to George Brown in Toronto, and the rest is history.

TYT: How did you get the name "The Feisty Chef"?

FC: Many moons ago, when working in Toronto, the band Oasis came in and I had quite an encounter with Liam Gallagher (the lead singer). After a brief fight over what music to play, he turned to me and said "you are quite a feisty lady...I like that". When I started my blog in 2009, the incident came to mind and the name stuck.

TYT: You've been a chef now for 16 years. What would you tell someone who wants to quit their job and become a chef?

FC: Be prepared to work. It isn't at all like TV...it's stinky, dirty and sometimes very degrading. Before doing anything, check out a "real" restaurant kitchen for a few nights to see what it is like. Better to do your homework before, than quit and hate it after.

TYT: Tell us a bit about your monthly "family dinners." I love the concept of gathering people from the community around big long tables (it's very in line with The Yellow Table philosophy)!

FC: The TIBS Family Dinners came about a year ago. The owners of Two If By Sea Cafe in Dartmouth and I thought it would be cool to host dinners in their space after hours. Each month, I come up with a menu that uses all local and seasonal food, we sell seats (45 max), and I do all the food except dessert (I am horrible at pastries). It is a true family affair–my husband helps, as does Alexis (one owner's wife), and our friends. It is a great community gathering, bringing together people from around the neighborhood and city and seating them together.

TYT: How has having two little kids affected your cooking style?

FC: My food has become simpler, less constructed. Gone are the "fine dining" days and now it is all about bringing out the most [flavor] in the amazing ingredients we have here in Nova Scotia.

TYT: What are five ingredients you always have in your pantry?

FC: Extra virgin olive oil, lemons, chilies, sea salt, Italian parsley.

TYT: What would you make tonight if you had to throw an impromptu dinner party for 8?

FC: It is Fall and the leaves are starting to change color. I'd make something warm and fuzzy...roasted squash salad with pumpkin seeds and walnut oil, and shaved Old Growler Gouda. Roasted pork leg with crackling, Brussels sprouts with bacon, beets and yellow beans. For dessert, salt roasted pears with caramel.

TYT: You teach cooking classes as well–what's a cooking tip you like to share with your students?

FC: Keep it simple! Go into your kitchen with confidence and take some chances, but keep it simple.

Follow Renée on her blog The Feisty Chef or on Twitter @feistychef.

THE FEISTY CHEF'S DILLY PICKLES

Makes approximately 20 (500ml) jars

7 lbs baby cucumbers, washed
3 heads garlic cloves, peeled and kept whole
1 bunch dill about to seed

Brine:
19 cups water
5 1/2 cups white vinegar
1 cups coarse salt

Sterilize the jars and tops and set aside. Make the brine by combining the ingredients and bringing to a boil; set aside. Place the washed cucumbers in the jars, making sure to get as many shoved in there as humanly possible. Don’t be scared to use a little muscle. Add 3 cloves of garlic and a few sprigs of the dill to each jar. Cover with the brine, seal, and process in simmering water for 13-15 minutes.

We ate our first jar after a week and they were great. If you have more will power than us, you could probably leave them for a little longer to maximize the flavour. Enjoy. And remember, you will always be loved if you show up with a jar of homemade pickles!

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Healthy Living: Fall Quinoa Salad

I'll be honest: a few years ago I had never even heard of quinoa. I've loved couscous for years, but quinoa wasn't on my radar until recently. Now this fluffy grain seems to be everywhere, touted as a "super-food" and praised for its nine essential amino acids and high protein content. It's also gluten-free, which is great news for people who have gluten allergies. I finally broke down and bought some a few months ago and, even though it takes a bit longer to cook than couscous (15 minutes instead of 5), its nutty flavor and light texture hooked me instantly. It also blends well with practically everything, and can be stored in the fridge for several days after being cooked.

This recipe was actually inspired by some leftover quinoa I had in the fridge yesterday. I also had some butternut squash, baby spinach, red onion and dried cranberries (a fabulous combo my friend Dori introduced me to) on hand, so I just sort of went from there. I've made quinoa salad with all sorts of flavor combinations–it's great in the summer with a ratatouille blend (roasted eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini) and in the fall and winter with any sort of squash and dark greens. I admit, I sometimes buy butternut squash already peeled and cut from Whole Foods or Trader Joe's, which cuts down on prep time considerably. But if you're buying a whole squash, you might want to wear some plastic gloves while peeling and cutting it. Some people (myself included) have allergic reactions to raw butternut squash–my hands will dry out immediately and begin to crack. It's really weird, so I just wear gloves now when I'm prepping butternut squash.

I love making dishes like this that are as colorful and delicious as they are healthy–AND that use up leftovers! This makes a great meal all by itself or a perfect side for a piece of fish or some roast chicken or pork.

QUINOA SALAD WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND SPINACH

Serves 4

2 cups peeled, cubed butternut squash
1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 tsp. cayenne
1 bag baby spinach
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1 cup cooked quinoa

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Arrange the butternut squash and onion on an aluminum foil-covered baking sheet and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne and toss to combine. Roast for 30 minutes or until tender and just beginning to brown.

Meanwhile, steam the spinach for 1-2 minutes until bright green and slightly wilted. Drain and squeeze out any excess water.

In a large bowl combine the squash, onion, spinach, dried cranberries, quinoa, and the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.

(NOTE: This is also really delicious with toasted pine nuts!)

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A Cook's Garden: New Brunswick, Canada

I just got back from a whirlwind trip to Atlantic Canada. I tasted my way around New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, and Nova Scotia...all in six days!! It was an inspiring trip and I met loads of talented chefs, fishermen, and gardeners. As you can imagine, the seafood in the coastal areas was phenomenal. It seemed like everything I tasted–oysters, lobster, scallops, mussels, halibut, cod, or tuna–had just come off the boat that day. I got to taste Colville Bay oysters straight out of the ocean on Prince Edward Island and had fried cod tongues in Newfoundland. Lobster rolls were everywhere in Nova Scotia (even, I'm told, on the menu at McDonald's) and I had the best scallops of my life in New Brunswick.

Despite all of this amazing seafood–not to mention the wonderful wines in Nova Scotia–one of the things that impressed me the most were the beautiful gardens. It seemed like every chef I met had his or her own garden, growing all manner of vegetables, fruits, and herbs for their restaurants and families. I had a chance to spend an afternoon in the garden with Chris Aerni, the chef/owner of Rossmount Inn outside St. Andrews, New Brunswick. Originally from Bern, Switzerland, Aerni and his wife Graziella settled in New Brunswick over ten years ago after falling in love with the area on a family vacation. They bought the inn–an 18-room historic manor overlooking the Passamaquoddy Bay–and began serving seasonal dinners using produce from their garden, mushrooms and berries from the surrounding woods, and seafood from the nearby Bay of Fundy. It doesn't get much more local than this. Word about Aerni's simple, garden-to-table fare has definitely spread, and the Rossmount Inn is now considered one of the best restaurants in the area.



But back to the garden. Armed with a basket and a small paring knife, Aerni and I strolled through his 3-acre garden in the drizzling rain. He pointed out all sorts of unusual plants he grows, cutting off samples for me to try. "This is a chioga beet," he said as he cut the tip off a tiny beet, revealing a candy-striped interior. He pulled brightly colored carrots from the ground–not only orange, but purple and yellow. He dug up purple potatoes (which later turned up on a scallop dish that night, thinly sliced and fried) and let me taste golden raspberries (those made an appearance in the dessert). I tried lovage (which tastes a bit like celery), tart gooseberries, nasturtium flowers, and the sweetest tomatoes I've ever tasted, so dark they were nearly black. He showed me a huge bush of bergamot–"we steep it like tea to make a syrup for dessert," he explained as he handed me a few leaves to smell. Walking through the garden was like a culinary crash course for me. Every single plant could be used fresh, and most could be preserved as well. Aerni shared all sorts of tips as we walked like, "pickled shiso leaves are delicious served with salmon and chicken," and "you can make wonderfully aromatic oils from nasturtiums." Who knew?



"I like to grow things you can't buy," Aerni explained. Anything he doesn't grow himself, he buys from the local organic Bantry Bay Farm. Given that the seasons are slightly later there (they have a very short summer that doesn't really start until late June), tomatoes were in full swing and I have never seem more beautiful heirloom tomatoes in my life. He grows over ten varieties, mostly grown in a greenhouse to protect them from the elements. I was in for a treat that night with a beautiful heirloom tomato salad, simply dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette, basil, and a few edible flowers. Heaven.

After the garden tour, Aerni asked if I'd like to go look for some mushrooms in the nearby forest. "It's chanterelle season," he explained. "And if we're lucky we may find some bolletes." There was no consideration on my part...despite my soggy shoes and lack of warm clothing, my answer was a definitive yes. I've always been curious how to know which mushrooms are edible or not, and here was my chance to go foraging with an expert guide.

There were no paths in the woods (or at least if there were, we didn't take them). Aerni plunged ahead, under branches, over logs, with an eagle-eye vision for fungi. It was incredible–where all I saw was a sea of green and grey, he saw dots of orange and brown, and sprinted ahead to examine them. He said he grew up foraging for mushrooms as a kid in Switzerland with his mom and siblings and several other families. After they gathered their mushrooms, they'd take them to a "controller's" house in the village–basically the mushroom expert who would sort through them and say which ones were edible and which were poisonous. He learned how to identify the good ones from the bad ones by watching the controller.



Each time he spotted mushrooms, he'd take a close look and toss the ones that had been eaten by snails. He also showed me several that looked perfectly good to me, but that were actually quite poisonous. ("Either you know, or you die!" he joked.) Within an hour, we'd nearly filled a basket with chanterelles, horse mushrooms, a few bolletes, and even one King Bollete (porcini). Amazing. We headed back to the inn and a few hours later, he had prepared a fantastic dinner using many of the ingredients we had gathered that day. The mushrooms were phenomenal–so fresh, so earthy, and so simply prepared. He didn't attempt to mask the flavors in any way–he just quickly sautéed them in butter with some shallot and white wine, garnished them with chives, and served them over a lightly toasted slice of baguette. Absolute perfection.

Given that I live in a walk-up apartment in Manhattan, gardening and foraging aren't exactly feasible options for me right now. But I definitely have a whole new respect for the gardener, and the intimate connection between the cook and the garden (and the forest!). I had a ball learning how everything was grown, and getting to taste and smell things in the garden and in the woods that would appear–just a few hours later–on my plate.

I think next year, I'll just start with a few potted herbs on the roof. I'm sure I can manage that. As for the mushrooms, I'll leave that to the experts.

SAUTEED WILD MUSHROOMS

Serves 4 to 6

2 pounds mixed wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, porcini, crimini, or shiitake)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
1/2 cup minced shallots (about 2 large)
Sea salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup white wine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives (or parsley)

Brush any dirt off the mushrooms with a damp paper towel or a mushroom brush (yes, they actually exist!) and remove the stems. Do NOT rinse with water, as that will make them soggy.

Heat the butter in a large heavy bottomed saute pan over medium high heat, until melted. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, stirring occasionally, about 3-4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper.

Cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until softened beginning to release some juices. Add the white wine and increase the heat; let simmer for 1-2 minutes until evaporated.

Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed. Stir in the chives (or parsley) and serve over toasted baguette slices as a starter, or as a side dish with roasted pork or game.

*Note: This is not Chris Aerni's exact recipe, but rather my adaptation based on his verbal instructions.

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Dinner Party: Roasted Branzini and Brussel Sprouts

I love dinner parties (clearly). And in spite of the fact that I've thrown hundreds in my life, I still get a little nervous having people over if I don't have time to prep in advance. I hate feeling rushed, which is why I try to get as much done ahead of time as possible. For me, entertaining is the most fun when the apartment is clean, the food is more or less prepped, and I can actually sit down and have a drink with guests when they arrive. Of course in reality, things never go quite as smoothly as I plan–I can't tell you how many times I've jumped in the shower and heard the doorbell ring! But if there's one thing I've learned from entertaining, it's this: if you're short on prep time, Keep. It. Simple. Your friends aren't expecting you to recreate The French Laundry in your apartment. If anything, they'll be happy to get a home cooked meal and will love whatever you prepare.

So when Brandon asked me the other day if some friends could come over for dinner, I hesitated, as it was a day where I'd literally be getting home at the same time they'd be arriving. I seriously considered ordering takeout. But then I thought about it a bit more and gave myself a little pep talk. (I'm not Thomas Keller, etc.) And I realized that I could cook a beautiful, simple meal in the same amount of time it would take to wait on a pizza delivery. I came up with a game plan: I'd run by the grocery on my way home, then throw together a little appetizer platter (I already had some cheese, crackers, charcuterie, and olives on hand) for everyone to munch on when they arrived. For the meal, I decided to make roasted branzini (Mediterranean sea bass) stuffed with lemon and thyme, roasted Brussels sprouts, and roasted baby potatoes–the prep is minimal and everything cooks together in a 425 degree oven. Which would give me time to sit and have a leisurely glass of wine with my friends. Perfect!


I find that a lot of people are intimidated by whole fish. They're not sure how to cook them, and how to get the bones out afterwards. Or maybe they're just creeped out by the eyes staring back at them. Nonetheless, roasting whole fish is so easy. You can ask the fishmonger to scale the fish and remove the guts, so all you have to do is stuff the cavity with herbs and thinly sliced lemons, season with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil, and pop them in the oven. Buying whole fish is much cheaper than buying fillets ($11.99/lb. for whole branzini versus $24.99/lb. for sea bass fillets), but the best part of all is the flavor. Roasting fish on the bones keeps the flesh moist, and it takes on the taste and aroma of whatever herbs you've stuffed inside the cavity. The bones are a bit tricky, as there always seem to be a few tiny ones mixed in even after deboning–just eat carefully and you should be fine.

In the end (despite my initial fears), the dinner was fun and relaxed. I put out the hors d'oeuvres, poured some wine, and one of my friends helped me assemble the fish and Brussels sprouts. We had everything in the oven in about 10 minutes, and we all headed up to the roof. When we came downstairs 25 minutes later, the apartment smelled heavenly and dinner was done! My challenge to you this weekend is this: go out and buy a whole fish (or two or three). Follow the recipe below–it's completely non-intimidating–and invite some friends over. No more excuses, just try it. You'll be hooked.

ROASTED BRANZINI WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Serves 4

1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
3 (1 lb.) branzini (or two 1 1/2-lb branzini)
Thyme sprigs
1/2 lemon, thinly sliced

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Cover two sheet trays with aluminum foil or parchment paper.

In a large bowl, toss the Brussels sprouts with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the Brussels sprouts in the oven.

Meanwhile, pat the fish dry with paper towels, inside and out. Season the cavities with salt and pepper and stuff with thyme sprigs (6 or 7) and lemon slices.

Arrange the fish on the second sheet tray, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with olive oil. Place the tray in the oven with the Brussels sprouts (on the lower rack) and roast for 20 to 25 minutes or until the flesh is flaky and cooked through, and the Brussels sprouts are lightly browned.

To debone: Using two forks, remove the top skin from the fish and discard. Carefully remove the top fillet to a warm serving platter. Lift out the backbone and ribs, and remove the bottom fillet. Repeat with the remaining fish. Arrange the Brussels sprouts on the platter with the fish. Squeeze with lemon juice and drizzle with olive oil. (Optional: garnish with fresh chopped parsley.)

Serve with roasted potatoes.

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The Best Nutella Crêpe Recipe

On a gray day like this, I get nostalgic for Paris. There are so many things I love about that beautiful city, and admittedly, many of them are food-related. A perfectly ripe apricot at a summertime market. A flaky croissant from Poujauran. A still-warm baguette l'ancien from Jean Millet (well worth the wait in line). A glass of bubbly on the terrace at Le Fumoir. A whimsically flavored–and perfectly executed–macaron from Pierre Hermé. Perhaps my favorite thing of all, however, is a 3 Euro takeout treat found all over Paris: a piping hot crêpe oozing with Nutella.



After extensive taste-testing, however, I have realized that a crêpe is not a crêpe. There are the crêpes that are too dry, too soggy, that skimp on the Nutella, or–worst of all–the crêpes that are made in advance and and sit in a limp pile for hours, merely reheated when you order. I've found perfection only once, in a nondescript spot on the Boulevard St. Germain, near Cluny. I stumbled upon Crépuscule many years ago while studying at the Sorbonne–one perfectly browned Nutella-filled crêpe from their takeout window was all it took for me to fall hopelessly in love.

A couple of things set their crêpes apart: 1) they brown their crêpes just long enough for them to remain slightly crisp on the outside. Being a sucker for texture, I love the contrast between the crisp exterior and the creamy hazelnut filling. 2) They have a secret ingredient in their batter: sucre vanille. These little packets of vanilla sugar are sold all over France and are often used in baked goods, giving it an extra vanilla boost. I've bought vanilla sugar in France to make the recipe at home, but if you can't find it, you can substitute vanilla extract. 3) They have achieved the perfect Nutella-to-crêpe ratio. As in, they smooth the Nutella evenly over half the crêpe, so you get an equal spread of Nutella on every single bite. Heaven.

I continue to return to my favorite spot every time I return to Paris, and the crêpes are always just as good. Nutella is clearly my favorite filling, but they also have other delicious options: lemon and sugar, rich chocolate sauce, or butter and jam. And on the savory side, they've got all manner of hearty gallettes, the traditional Breton pancakes made with buckwheat flour. Ham, cheese, and egg is a classic, but I love their goat cheese and spinach gallette for a light lunch.

Even if you never come to Paris, crêpes are amazingly easy–and cheap–to make at home. You just need a flat-bottomed crêpe pan (ideally) or a thin-bottomed non-stick skillet (you can get one for less that $20 here). There are special wooden sticks sold in France to flip your crêpes, but you can just use a nonstick spatula. (Or, of you get really good, you can flip them in the air like the pros). The key when making crêpes is to blend the batter really well so there are no lumps (a blender is great for this), to let it sit in the fridge an hour before cooking, and to learn the proper pan rotation so the batter spreads thinly and evenly. This will all take a bit of practice, but after you've tried it a time or two, you'll be hooked.



Crêpes are great party food–make a stack as people arrive and lay out a variety of toppings so everyone can assemble their own dessert. Your friends will definitely be impressed that you made them from scratch! Though the recipe below is for dessert crepes, be sure to try my recipe for buckwheat galettes so you can experiment with savory fillings as well. Bon appetit!

SWEET CRÊPE BATTER

Makes about 20 crêpes

2 eggs
1 cup milk
1/4 cup water
2 teaspoons vanilla
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons melted butter, plus more for pan

If you are in need of a crêpe pan, you can get one on the cheap here. My favorite spatula is from Krampouz and will run you about $15, available here.

Place all the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. If you don't have a blender, whisk the eggs, milk, water, and vanilla together in a bowl until smooth. Add the flour and sugar and whisk to combine. Whisk in 2 tablespoons of the melted butter. Strain the batter into another bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least an hour to allow all the air bubbles to settle.

Heat a small crêpe pan (or nonstick skillet) over medium high heat. Swirl 1 teaspoon of butter in the pan and add a small amount of batter to the pan–swirl the pan so that the batter evenly and thinly coats the bottom. Cook for about 30 seconds (until lightly browned) and flip. Cook for another 10-15 seconds and remove to a plate. Continue cooking the rest of the batter, adding additional butter every third crêpe or so. Place the crêpes on a sheet tray, cover with aluminum foil, and keep warm in a 225 degree F oven until ready to serve. (NOTE: They taste best right out of the pan, so don't let them sit too long in the oven!)

To serve: Spread each crêpe with your desired topping: Nutella, warm chocolate sauce, jam, butter and sugar, lemon, etc. and then fold in half, then into fourths, like a napkin. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm.